Which one to believe ?

rickyjjuk

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Jun 3, 2009
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Hi All

I have a question to ask about meters and there readings. I have been using the cheap and cheerful meters off eBay for testing my pH and tds. However my father in law has recently got a more expensive one that's all singing and dancing :). He was going to use it for checking his pond but has let me try it out first.

photo(1).jpg

In the picture of the meters mine are the 2 on the right and my father in laws is the one on the left. Now these are the readings off one of my tanks with each meter.


My meter readings

pH 7.8
tds 152

Father in laws

pH 6.48 (goes to 2 decimal places its fancy like that lol)
tds 141

Now just because his one is more expensive should i be thinking mine are not as accurate i.e. wrong?? The water in my area is usually pretty hard like 8 pH or higher and tds of 390. I have been using ro water with ro right as additive to adjust before adding to the tank. I don't have any test kits at the moment to try work it out. Does anyone else use these meters at all and how have you found them? Also does anyone recommend any good test kits or anything i can do to work out which one i should go with?

Regards

Ricky
 

dw1305

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May 5, 2009
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Hi all,
TDS is much easier to read than pH, both meters will actually read conductivity (in microS) and then convert this to TDS, the ratio is about x 0.64, but depends upon the major salt (it is 0.50 for NaCl). This may be why there is a small discrepancy (141 ppm TDS vs 152ppm TDS), the meters may use a different conversion factor.

pH is much, much more difficult to measure, and I would go with the better (Hanna) meter. Even with a good lab. quality electronic meter you need to store the pH membrane in the right conditions, and buffer the meter at pH4 and pH7 every time you use it, to get a meaningful reading.

pH also goes up and down during the day/night, particularly in planted tanks.

I would just use the TDS meter, and use the water at about 150ppmTDS, and ignore the pH.

cheers Darrel
 
Last edited:

Ike

Member
Nov 9, 2011
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Phoenix, AZ
I would trust the black Hanna meter more than the others imo.

I'm biased though, I use a Hanna meter myself... :)
 

SmithRC

Member
Apr 21, 2009
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Newport Pagnell
I'd tend to trust the hanna equipment - its branded and by a reputible company.
Did it come with a calibration certificate (they normally have something like that with them)

If your lucky, the cheap ones might have some method to calibtate them - the hanna should come with instructions on how to do it.

I'll try and get some PH buffer solution from work for you to test them out...
4, 7 and 10 is normally used to calibrate PH meters...

either that or google Home PH calibration - there are sites out there that list the PH of common household liquids so you can use those! :)
 

Lornek8

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Apr 21, 2009
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That yellow model looks like an old Hanna I used to use. Was pretty good but was pretty touchy about calibration & storage.

All digital meters can be in/out of spec depending on how well/recently it was calibrated. With my expereince with a digital meter similar to what you've got I'd say the newer model would be more true. Easiest way would be to get some calibration solution though.
 

dw1305

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May 5, 2009
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Hi all,
I like Hanna pH meters as well.
Easiest way would be to get some calibration solution though
This is really important. You have to buffer the meter on pH4 and pH7 using the calibration solutions every time you use it. You also need to turn it on 10 minutes before you want to use, and if it doesn't have automatic temperature compensation, you need to set the temperature as well.

The probe and membrane also need be stored wet in the correct storage solution (usually KCl, if you have a silver chloride reference electrode/glass electrode probe).

These aren't meters that you can just dip in and get a meaningful reading particulalry in soft water (but you can do this with a TDS meter).

cheers Darrel
 

dw1305

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May 5, 2009
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Hi all,
how do they compare when using both meters to read ro?
They should read the same value for conductivity (how low it is will depend upon a lot of factors like the RO membrane, pump pressure, how hard the tap water was etc.), but they are likely to read differently for pH. As an example of this is that in 100% RO one meter could read pH4, and the other pH8, whilst both being reasonably accurate.

I've put the reasons (below) why conductivity is simple to measure in nearly all water, and pH is easy to measure relatively accurately in hard, salty, buffered water (Marine, Rift Valley Lakes etc), and very difficult to measure accurately in soft water.

cheers Darrel

Conductivity
The TDS meter would read 0ppm in pure H2O (It is more likely to read 10 - 20ppm), even cheap TDS meters are fairly accurate, because they actually measure electrical conductivity. If you know the area of the electrodes (S), and the distance (L) between them, you can use Ohm's law to work out the theoretical conductivity, and then use a calibration solution to get an accurate cell constant. This cell constant shouldn't then change during the meters working life.



Method
When the probe is placed in the tank water, the meter applies voltage between two electrodes inside the probe. Electrical resistance from the solution causes a drop in voltage, the voltage arriving is read by the meter and converted to micro-Siemens.

H2O
Pure H2O is an electrical insulator and the voltage drop is dependent upon the ions in solution. This is a linear relationship, the more ions you have the more current flows, and the higher the reading. Pure H2O = no ions = 100% voltage drop.

Temperature
Because conductivity is temperature dependent, the meter should show the conductivity of the water at 25oC, not at the actual temperature. This results in a standardized reading.

Calibration
You can calibrate the media using a bought calibration solution (or KCl), but they should be pretty close even without calibration. The typical conversion of conductivity to TDS ppm is that 100 μS/cm is equivalent to 64 ppm TDS.

pH
This is much, much more complicated to measure, pH is really just a proxy ratio we use to estimate acidity and alkalinity, rather than a measurement itself. From Wikipedia:

In a solution pH approximates but is not equal to p[H], the negative logarithm (base 10) of the molar concentration of dissolved hydronium ions (H3O+); a low pH indicates a high concentration of hydronium ions, while a high pH indicates a low concentration. This negative of the logarithm matches the number of places behind the decimal point, so, for example, 0.1 molar hydrochloric acid should be near pH 1 and 0.0001 molar HCl should be near pH 4 (the base 10 logarithms of 0.1 and 0.0001 being −1, and −4, respectively). Pure (de-ionized) water is neutral, and can be considered either a very weak acid or a very weak base, giving it a pH of 7 (at 25 °C (77 °F)), or 0.0000001 M H+.[
H2O
The meter probably won't read pH7 even if it is correctly buffered. In RO pH is a totally meaningless measurement. Water is such a efficient solvent that water that has been exposed to air is mildly acidic. The water absorbs carbon dioxide from the air, which is then slowly converted into carbonic acid, which dissociates to liberate hydrogen ions, more hydrogen ions = acidic:

CO2 + H2O <-> H2CO3 <-> HCO3− + H+

If you keep marines, or Rift Lake Cichlids, your pH will be relatively stable and useful, in soft water it needs some interpretation and an understanding of what that pH actually means. Additionally at around pH7, accurate measurement of pH is problematic.

This is an acid/base titration curve for neutralising hydrochloric acid (HCl) with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) HCl. Because pH measures the ratio of acid and alkali ("bases"), it doesn't change the graph whether we start with a strong solution (molar) of each, or a weak (0.001 molar).

As long as the concentrations of H+ and OH- are the same the pH curve will look the same.



The small amount of base neutralizes an equal amount of acid with an excess amount of acid remaining. The hydrogen ions supplied by the excess acid exist in increasing amounts of water produced from the neutralization. As a result, the pH changes slowly.

The midpoint of the vertical section of the curve is the equivalence point indicating when equal amounts of acid and base are present. At the equivalence point, the H+ has been neutralized by the OH - leaving a neutral (pH7) solution:

H+(aq) + OH -(aq) —> H2O(l)

As you add more NaOH, the ratio changes so there are more OH- ions and the pH rises, quickly at first and then apparently slowing, due to the log10 nature of the pH scale.

You can think of it like putting coffee and sugar into water. You can neutralise the bitterness of the coffee with the sugar, so that a cup with 4 spoonfuls each of coffee and sugar might taste similar to one with 1 spoonful of each, this would be the "pH7" scenario. The colour of the coffee, and how "thick" it was, would differ between the 2 cups and this is the TDS measurement.

Whatever you do it is difficult to get back to "water" by adding anything else, or by trying to remove the coffee and sugar.

Any-one who still has the will to live can have a look at this thread:
"My water conditions, help, do I need RO or HMA or neither" for some details and a practical example: <http://www.plecoplanet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8904>

cheers Darrel