Which Filter Media

[C8lyn]

I'm starting over with my filter and I would like to know what media everyone keeps in their filters, in what order and what purpose they serve.
It used to have (from top to bottom)
Filter wool
coarse green mat
noodles
coarse green mat
bioballs
with a bag of purigen in the bottom.
That's just what it had when my brother gave it to me and I didn't think much about it at the time, but now I've seen so many different filter and sump setups that I'm curious about why people use certain media and which ones would be best.

 

[Lornek8]

Coarse green mat is typically a prefilter to strain out the larger particles.
Noodles are additional prefilter material &/or provide some biological.
Bioballs are biomedia.
Filter wool is a mechanical media to strain out particles finer than the green pads
Purigen is chemical media to polish the water.

Personally i'd go (from inlet to outlet):
Coarse green mat
noodles
divider of sorts, or if filter didn't have it, possibly filter wool
bioballs
filter wool

or something like that. I'd have to actually see the filter media to make a better choice.
It'd also depend on how I use the filter, the setup of the filter & if I was running other filters. For instance, I don't like to run canister filters to do mechincal cleaning of the tank, I typically run HOB or internal filters for this. The reason being that HOB & internals are so much easier to clean that i'd rather clean them more often then have to break down a canister to clean it. That's also why I'd leave the Purigen out of the canister & if you really want to use it (I personally don't run any chemical media) place it in a HOB or internal filter as well.

 

[bigbird]

hello,

I also have the same media set up as Lornek. I however do not have HOB. I do have internal powerheads though with plain filter wool. My own personal experience is however, I find wheneve I need to clean the internal cartridge it tends to disturb my fish, so am going to change all tanks to have 2 external filters. cheers jk :thumbup:

 

[D-MAC]

It depends a lot on the design of your filter as to the set up of media...The way you describe in your set up is typical of a lot of externals nowadays with the most frequently changed being at the top working down to the least disturbed ie: bioballs and noodles...The Purigen depending on the tannin removal is one item that may need a lot of maintenance like recharging so I would have that at the top for easy removal or in a separate internal filter.

 

[L777]

Hi,

IMO if you can run two filters each capable of filtering the tank in its own right then it makes for a far safer system. I think this is called a redundant filter system which basically safe guards your bacteria colony and O2 levels against mechanical failure. Thus ensuring a stable and healthy environment for your livestock.

As for the media I run ceramic noodles are first, then Eheim Substrat pro, followed by a fine sponge and a polishing pad on both my externals. Then in the top of one I have purigen and in the other activated carbon. I also have one of the filters return going through a UV filter.

In my application I use the Purigen to keep the ammonia as low as possible (helps to keep algae at bay) and the activated carbon to remove the tannins as I have a lot of bogwood in the tank.

Basically there are a lot of media products out there that you can use many have specific tasks but may also perform in some way other functions as well. You can choose specific media to target specific problems that you may encounter within your own system so there isn't really a one solution fits all scenario.

Chris.

 

[C8lyn]

Just for reference, i have an AquaOne 700
I can't really think of many specific problems I want to target.
I have a lot of wood with anubias and java fern, the water needs to be suitable for plecs.
At the lfs I was looking at fine wool pads and fine micron pads and a few different medusa like "Chemizee" which looks like grey gravel and "CeramiSub" which looks like light brown, porous rocks. I just wish I knew more about chemistry so I knew what each thing does and how it would benefit me.

 

[D-MAC]

Just for reference, i have an AquaOne 700
I can't really think of many specific problems I want to target.
I have a lot of wood with anubias and java fern, the water needs to be suitable for plecs.
At the lfs I was looking at fine wool pads and fine micron pads and a few different medusa like "Chemizee" which looks like grey gravel and "CeramiSub" which looks like light brown, porous rocks. I just wish I knew more about chemistry so I knew what each thing does and how it would benefit me.

This link has the media setup details for you.
http://www.aquaone.co.uk/documents/Aquis500-1200_instructions_lowres_new.pdf

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
I just put a sponge on the intake, and then 2/3 to 3/4 fill the body of the filter with ceramic rings or alphagrog.

By having the filter on the intake sponge most of the organic debris doesn't end up in the filter and can just be syphoned out of the tank.

You want the ammonia (NH3) in the filter, not all the organic crud that will reduce water flow and be decomposed by "ordinary" bacteria, removing oxygen that should be used by the "special" bacteria that convert NH3 to NO3:

NH3 + CO2 + 1.5 O2 → NO2- + CO2 + 0.5 O2 → NO3- and 2 x O2 used for every molecule of NH3 converted to NO3.

As long as the flow speed through the filter media is reasonably high all the media should remain aerobic and functional.

If you have a very fine air stone you can feed the oxygenated water into the filter, the bubbles need to be fine enough to avoid air locks developing. I've recently seen a thread where they have used a ceramic ring as a diffuser, and that would be perfect.

I clean the intake filter once a week (for a PPI10 coarse sponge) and more frequently for finer sponges (PPI20 or 30) or a heavier fish load. I use an Eheim double tap on the hose from the intake, to make taking the sponge of easier and to stop air locks forming in the filter (I have 2nd hand Eheim Classics and they don't have a priming button, although they ae easy to prime).

The internal ceramic rings only need a quick rinse every 6 months or so, when you can clean up the hoses, impeller etc. If the flow rate drops and the filter clogs more frequently despite an intake sponge you probably need a bigger volume filter.

These are the sponges I use, I just sew them up from a sheet of PPI10 sponge, but you can buy suitable ones.

cheers Darrel

 

[C8lyn]

Thanks guys. I'll let you know what I end up getting

 

[Lornek8]

I don't mess around with the chemical stuff. They are usually a lot more of a pain than a help. Unless you have a specific condition that you absolutely need to take care of with chemical media, I wouldn't bother. One thing to consider, if you didn't know, is that chemical media is not permanent & has a definite life-span to it. Most require replacement every few months or when they get depleted. The difficult part is telling when they get depeleted & need replacement. Some, upon reaching capacity, even can be dangerous as they begin dumping what they have been adsorbing back into the tank, so while you're under the impression they are subtracting bad stuff from your water, they can actually be adding it back in.

 

[L777]

One thing to consider, if you didn't know, is that chemical media is not permanent & has a definite life-span to it. Most require replacement every few months or when they get depleted. The difficult part is telling when they get depeleted & need replacement. Some, upon reaching capacity, even can be dangerous as they begin dumping what they have been adsorbing back into the tank, so while you're under the impression they are subtracting bad stuff from your water, they can actually be adding it back in.

I totally agree.

But Purigen is easy to tell when it needs replenishing as it actually changes colour and the water column starts to colour up when the activated carbon needs replacing in the situation within which I use it. i.e. to remove the tannins. As I said I have a LOT of bogwood in my tanks and I really do mean a LOT...

 

[Lornek8]

I totally agree.

But Purigen is easy to tell when it needs replenishing as it actually changes colour and the water column starts to colour up when the activated carbon needs replacing in the situation within which I use it. i.e. to remove the tannins. As I said I have a LOT of bogwood in my tanks and I really do mean a LOT...

Yeah, agrred. Purigen isn't one of those, especially in your application, that'd I'd be too concerned with. The post was more direceted at the OP in regards to the talk of understanding chemistry & chemical media. Its more about the use of carbons & nitrate-absorbing medias and the like.

BTW, whats wrong with tannins? I kinda like the tea-colored water (SO doesn't though) and the benefits are well-documented. So what if I can't see my fish if they're more than a few inches away, lol.

 

[L777]

Hi,

I have nothing against tannins Parsee. :lol: In fact in certain situations I'd actively encourage there presence.

But I do really like crystal clear water in my living room tanks (as does she-who-must-be-obeyed). These are the ones on show all the time and judged by the less informed that live / visit my home.

Chris.

 

[jessonthenet]

I only use ceramic rings and normal sponges. I have 2 of my 4 trays alternated with ceramic rings and it seems to work. Get good water flow and it handles the bio load in my tank fine.

Carbon is a waste of time, filter floss is good if you have fine particles that cause a problem but I find it causes the filter to clog quicker.

What exactly is purigen for? Never used it.

 

[L777]

Carbon is a waste of time,

What exactly is purigen for? Never used it.

If achieving unsurpassed water quality, clarity and removing fish tank aroma's can be considered a waste of time then I agree. After all lets face it the fish ain't all that bothered in general are they?

For Purigen see:-

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Purigen.html

Does what it says on the tin.

Chris.