1st of all sorry if this has been covered 1000billion times. 2nd im just currently running my own tests ect from advice i have been givin from a few people on how to grow up fry at a fast pace. please lend me your ideas and thoughts as i currently have alot of BN fry coming out every where, i am feeding hikari wafers, sera viformo, a few spectrum pellets, zukini 1nce a week and a few cheapo wafers and kelp. (mixing up the diet). i found throwing tiny fry (under 2cm) into a 3 foot tank is deadly and didnt work and lost quite a few. so am now trying smaller tanks and moving them more often into bigger tanks as they grow (all are on the same system 2000L). water change 1nce a week. (i can not change this due to being on rain water only). would the size of the foot print of the tank make a difference (ie a 44 gal drum has smaller foot print but more L than a 3 foot tank). thanks in advance for your advice dave.:hi:
raising fry
- Thread starter mangrovedave
- Start date
think main things to get fry to grow is frequent w/c and good food and clean tanks.
rain water only could be short of some essential minerals and vitamins they need so consider using a little treated tap water with rain water or adding minerals?
rain water only could be short of some essential minerals and vitamins they need so consider using a little treated tap water with rain water or adding minerals?
bn fry
im not sure how you guys breed them in u.k. but i use 60-70 litre tanks and run u.g. filters with a good serve of gravel so you get plenty of surface area on the gravel to hold bacteria...
its nothing for me to have 500 x 3-4cm b/n in one tank..... and they get fed hand fulls of pumpkin daily and any other food scraps that might fall their way.
from when they first come outa the cave to 3-4cm its about 2 and 1/2 months - sometimes 3 months if water is cold.....
heres a few old pics
strange how sometimes they line up on the glass... and other times they congregate on the floor...
water changes are 1 per week 30-40%.... and if needed depending on the fish numbers in the tank twice a week or even daily when you get 500+ in a tank
and i use treated tap water on every tank.... the only fish that get rain water are the ones trying to be spawned for the first time... sometimes need to get the tds level in the tank below 100ppm... those of you that use RO water... not necessary IMO.... can be very dangerous to your fishes health if its not used with a lot of common sense!!!! no - electrolytes in the water - fish cant breathe - they die :rip:
im not sure how you guys breed them in u.k. but i use 60-70 litre tanks and run u.g. filters with a good serve of gravel so you get plenty of surface area on the gravel to hold bacteria...
its nothing for me to have 500 x 3-4cm b/n in one tank..... and they get fed hand fulls of pumpkin daily and any other food scraps that might fall their way.
from when they first come outa the cave to 3-4cm its about 2 and 1/2 months - sometimes 3 months if water is cold.....
heres a few old pics
strange how sometimes they line up on the glass... and other times they congregate on the floor...
water changes are 1 per week 30-40%.... and if needed depending on the fish numbers in the tank twice a week or even daily when you get 500+ in a tank
and i use treated tap water on every tank.... the only fish that get rain water are the ones trying to be spawned for the first time... sometimes need to get the tds level in the tank below 100ppm... those of you that use RO water... not necessary IMO.... can be very dangerous to your fishes health if its not used with a lot of common sense!!!! no - electrolytes in the water - fish cant breathe - they die :rip:
Hi all,
What a great picture, can you re-home them all?
The main respiratory problem with not having any dKH (carbonate buffering) is that any addition of an acid (like the carbonic acid from the dissolved CO2 from respiration) will cause a rapid fall in pH.
cheers Darrel
What a great picture, can you re-home them all?
You do need to re-mineralise R.O water, but the quote is slightly mis-leading in that pure H2O actually holds more Oxygen (O2) than water with some electrolytes (TDS).
The main respiratory problem with not having any dKH (carbonate buffering) is that any addition of an acid (like the carbonic acid from the dissolved CO2 from respiration) will cause a rapid fall in pH.
cheers Darrel
This post is spot on very smart
the point about carbonic acid is spot on and missed by may fish breeders
When a group of fry start to die this is normaly one of the main reasons.
regards Bob
many aquarists overlook the need for electrolytes; mineral cations such as calcium & magnesium and the effect of KH (carbonate hardness) in their aquarium.
minerals such as calcium are essential for osmotic function in fish and many aquarists make the mistake of believing that fish do not require calcium or minerals when in reality (based on many studies in biochemistry) these mineral cations are essential.
if you have do your own pool maintence and water quality control, you will understand the relationship between alkalinity and ph.
which is much the same as gh/kh and ph
common sense is once again needed when using rain/RO water
and yes i re-home all my fish - usually to the local fishop or a few other fishops when i have too many
minerals such as calcium are essential for osmotic function in fish and many aquarists make the mistake of believing that fish do not require calcium or minerals when in reality (based on many studies in biochemistry) these mineral cations are essential.
if you have do your own pool maintence and water quality control, you will understand the relationship between alkalinity and ph.
which is much the same as gh/kh and ph
common sense is once again needed when using rain/RO water
and yes i re-home all my fish - usually to the local fishop or a few other fishops when i have too many
thanks for the replys guys. i add marine salt into my system (about a cup per 2000L) this contains all the trace i think i need. i also have in the sump a bag of coral and also add 30 grams of epsom salts to the water to increase the hardness a bit. the fish are breeding so like they say a breeding fish is a happy fish. any more tips on what i could be adding to the water to increase my breeding ect?
marine salt is mainly sodium chloride.
I add RO right or marine tropic
has a mix of all the ohter salts in right amounts
I add RO right or marine tropic
has a mix of all the ohter salts in right amounts
Hi all,
Yes I'd agree with Irene, the marine salt is just NaCl and is raising your conductivity, but nothing else.
There are all the details for DIY re-mineralising salt for RO or very soft water here:
<http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/RO.htm>.
This site, "James' Planted Tank" is very interesting all around.
<http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/index.htm>
cheers Darrel
Yes I'd agree with Irene, the marine salt is just NaCl and is raising your conductivity, but nothing else.
There are all the details for DIY re-mineralising salt for RO or very soft water here:
<http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/RO.htm>.
This site, "James' Planted Tank" is very interesting all around.
<http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/index.htm>
cheers Darrel