Do you use an extractor fan by any chance?Not a drop in my fish house
:thumbup::whistle::woohoo:
The house of gee is almost complete
- Thread starter thegeeman
- Start date
No But My fish house adjoins the living humans house and I have a rad running of the c/ heating.
:woohoo:
Are the external walls of your fish room built like the rest of your house, ie, made as a cavity wall.
If i had the money at the time, i would have built a cavity wall for my hut, it would have helped a lot.
put batons on the wall and then poly infront. Thats what I did but I still have issue,s. My 60 watt dehumidifier is on the way. I presume not having lids on some of the tanks doesnt help either?
Cheers
thegeeman
. I presume not having lids on some of the tanks doesnt help either?Cheers
thegeeman
You can stick (dab) insulated plasterboard to an outside wall, if you don't want to lose any space in a room, and want to improve insulation, say in a cold utility room, that only has a single skin wall.
In such a case the wall must already be free from dampness.
But we are talking about a room that will have high moisture content because of all the tanks of water.
A single skin brick wall, even if it it is sealed properly and has no signs of dampness, will be the coolest surface in the room, especially in the winter, and the moisture in the room will condense on the walls because of this, and quite quickly your walls will start to stain and mould will form.
A cavity wall is designed to stop this, a quick example is a double skinned brick cavity wall.
You have two layers of brick with a cavity inbetween, cavity approximately 50mm (but can be different), and the cavity is usually ventilated.
The outer skin will be cold, especially in the winter, while the inner skin will be warm from the heating in the room, and any dampness that comes through the outside skin will condense in the cavity and run down the cavity and drain away.
A more common method these days with new houses is a timber kit house, where the outside skin is brick, and the inside skin is timber framing, with a cavity inbetween, and the inside of the house dry lined.
The cavity construction is not important, but works the same as the old double skinned brick cavity walls.
A more simplified method of forming a cavity, is a 2" by 2" stud wall built 50mm from the face of a brick wall, and the stud wall then dry lined.
Edit, the cavity gap dosn't need to be 50mm when building a partition wall like this, it can be as small as 1/2" gap, as long as there is a gap between the two walls and the partition dosn't touch the external wall.
Also any packing in the middle of the wall to strengthen the partition, should have some D.P.C. behind it to stop any dampness from the external wall crossing to the partition.
The gap between the two walls acts like a cavity, where the inside wall is warm and the outside wall is cold, and the moisture in the air will not condense so quickly on the walls.
An extractor fan will help with moisture in the air.
A fish room is much like a bathroom in constant use, well maybe not as extreme.
I went the penny pinching way when building my hut and have regretted it since.
I used 4" by 2" studding, timber cladding on the outside, 2" kingspan fitted tight to the inside walls, hopefully forming some sort of cavity, but i was dreaming, though the costs were running up.
My hut walls are basically one skin and in the winter my walls are the coolest place in the room, so the water condenses on the walls easily.
I invested in a decent sized dehumidifer with a constant drain, which helps a lot.
H.T.H.
In such a case the wall must already be free from dampness.
But we are talking about a room that will have high moisture content because of all the tanks of water.
A single skin brick wall, even if it it is sealed properly and has no signs of dampness, will be the coolest surface in the room, especially in the winter, and the moisture in the room will condense on the walls because of this, and quite quickly your walls will start to stain and mould will form.
A cavity wall is designed to stop this, a quick example is a double skinned brick cavity wall.
You have two layers of brick with a cavity inbetween, cavity approximately 50mm (but can be different), and the cavity is usually ventilated.
The outer skin will be cold, especially in the winter, while the inner skin will be warm from the heating in the room, and any dampness that comes through the outside skin will condense in the cavity and run down the cavity and drain away.
A more common method these days with new houses is a timber kit house, where the outside skin is brick, and the inside skin is timber framing, with a cavity inbetween, and the inside of the house dry lined.
The cavity construction is not important, but works the same as the old double skinned brick cavity walls.
A more simplified method of forming a cavity, is a 2" by 2" stud wall built 50mm from the face of a brick wall, and the stud wall then dry lined.
Edit, the cavity gap dosn't need to be 50mm when building a partition wall like this, it can be as small as 1/2" gap, as long as there is a gap between the two walls and the partition dosn't touch the external wall.
Also any packing in the middle of the wall to strengthen the partition, should have some D.P.C. behind it to stop any dampness from the external wall crossing to the partition.
The gap between the two walls acts like a cavity, where the inside wall is warm and the outside wall is cold, and the moisture in the air will not condense so quickly on the walls.
An extractor fan will help with moisture in the air.
A fish room is much like a bathroom in constant use, well maybe not as extreme.
I went the penny pinching way when building my hut and have regretted it since.
I used 4" by 2" studding, timber cladding on the outside, 2" kingspan fitted tight to the inside walls, hopefully forming some sort of cavity, but i was dreaming, though the costs were running up.
My hut walls are basically one skin and in the winter my walls are the coolest place in the room, so the water condenses on the walls easily.
I invested in a decent sized dehumidifer with a constant drain, which helps a lot.
H.T.H.
Last edited:
Gee
I will need to check what model i have in the hut tomorrow.
These are around the same price i paid a couple of years ago for the one i have, but they don't look the same; Amazon Series Dehumidifers
The 2000 Series looks more like the one i have, but are dearer again; 2000 Series Dehumidifiers
I searched for dehumider reviews and Ebac came up a lot as one of the better ones then, so i went with them, and am happy so far.
I will need to check what model i have in the hut tomorrow.
These are around the same price i paid a couple of years ago for the one i have, but they don't look the same; Amazon Series Dehumidifers
The 2000 Series looks more like the one i have, but are dearer again; 2000 Series Dehumidifiers
I searched for dehumider reviews and Ebac came up a lot as one of the better ones then, so i went with them, and am happy so far.
Gee
The model i have is an Ebac 2600ex, i searched the site and they are advertising them for £112.50; Ebac 2600 Series
Hopefully not too expensive for your budget.
The model i have is an Ebac 2600ex, i searched the site and they are advertising them for £112.50; Ebac 2600 Series
Hopefully not too expensive for your budget.
No Not at all Andrew:~(
Thanks for the link. I was looking at them but thought they might be abit over the top. 18 litres a day is a lot of water:dk:
Cheers
thegeeman
Gee
I went for that dehumidifer because i was really peeved with the condensation i was getting in the hut, and i wasn't sure what size to get, so opted for a good rated one.
If you know the size of the one you need, and see a model that suits, go for it, as long as it dos the job.
When i was designing my hut, i remember reading a lot, that an extractor would fan deal with most condensation, how wrong that has turned out for me :wb:
I went for that dehumidifer because i was really peeved with the condensation i was getting in the hut, and i wasn't sure what size to get, so opted for a good rated one.
If you know the size of the one you need, and see a model that suits, go for it, as long as it dos the job.
When i was designing my hut, i remember reading a lot, that an extractor would fan deal with most condensation, how wrong that has turned out for me :wb:
Thats the problem, I have no idea what size i would need. I was thinking aliong the lines of this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PREM-I-AIR-1608-COMPACT-PORTABLE-DEHUMIDIFIER-AR29_W0QQitemZ110483575808QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air?hash=item19b9559400. Not sure now if it will be man enough:dk:
Cheers
thegeeman
Gee
I am not sure either, i can only say try it and see how it goes.
The only drawback i can think of with a smaller unit is how long it will take to fill, as long as it can last a day before filling, letting you empty it each day.
Maybe finding a small unit and that has a constant drain is the way to go.
A constant drain, is just really a piece of hose fitted to the unit, mine has a bit to slip the hose onto.
I am not sure either, i can only say try it and see how it goes.
The only drawback i can think of with a smaller unit is how long it will take to fill, as long as it can last a day before filling, letting you empty it each day.
Maybe finding a small unit and that has a constant drain is the way to go.
A constant drain, is just really a piece of hose fitted to the unit, mine has a bit to slip the hose onto.
18ltrs evaporation isn't as much as you'd think, if your tanks are uncovered, with enough tanks obviously, you could fill that quite quickly.
I have 2 small tanks running in one room, we dont have the heating on in there so its not as warm as the rest of the house, but not really cold either, and i'm topping up the equivalent of 20+ltrs a week on just these 2, my advice, get some condesate trays for the tanks too, will help heaps
:dk::dk:
You mean like cover glass?. At the moment I have 3 or 4 tanks without tops. In the old fish house which had the same set up insulation I never had a problem. I am think that the opens tanks are the real problem
Cheers
thegeeman